Shine Bright This Festive Season - Bonus Gifts Inside 🎁
Acrylic is one of the most popular materials for desktop CO₂ lasers — it engraves cleanly, looks premium, and is perfect for signs, gifts, keychains and light panels. But if the settings are off by just a little bit, you get melted edges, yellowing, or shallow, dusty marks.
This guide shares a real factory-tested settings chart for engraving acrylic from 0.1–3 mm depth with an 80 W and 130 W CO₂ laser — based on the same data we use internally for the GWEIKE Cloud and M-Series.
- If you just want a clean frosted mark: start from 0.1–0.2 mm rows, use “Best quality” speed, and fine-tune power by ±2–3%.
- LightBurn users: speed is often shown as mm/min. Convert if needed: 800 mm/s = 48,000 mm/min, 400 mm/s = 24,000 mm/min (your machine may cap at a lower max speed).
- If edges look melted/rounded: reduce power 2–3% or use 2 passes instead of 1 hot pass.
- If engraving looks dusty/shallow: increase power 2–3% or reduce speed slightly, and make sure focus + lens are clean.
LightBurn Notes (So You Can Copy Settings Faster)
Many beginners search “LightBurn acrylic engraving settings” because they want something they can paste directly into a layer. Here are the practical notes that help you apply the chart correctly.
1) Speed unit check
LightBurn commonly shows engraving speed as mm/min (some setups may display mm/s). If your UI looks like “3000–20000”, it’s probably mm/min; if it looks like “200–800”, it may be mm/s. Use the conversion below when needed.
Conversion: 800 mm/s = 48,000 mm/min; 400 mm/s = 24,000 mm/min.
2) Beginner baseline (recommended)
Mode: Fill
Line interval: 0.08–0.12 mm (start 0.10 mm)
Passes: 1 pass for 0.1–1.0 mm; 2–3 passes for 2–3 mm
Air assist: low (your 1–2 bar range is ideal)
Test Conditions (What These Numbers Assume)
- Lens: standard focus lens (≈50–63.5 mm)
- Machine state: aligned optics + clean lens/mirrors + level bed
- Air assist: light air assist around 1–2 bar
- Material note: cast acrylic typically engraves whiter; extruded may look more transparent and may need a small power bump
How Acrylic Behaves Under a CO₂ Laser
Before we dive into numbers, it helps to understand why acrylic is both easy and tricky to engrave:
- High absorption at 10.6 µm: CO₂ laser light is absorbed efficiently, so even low power will mark the surface.
- Thermoplastic: acrylic melts and re-flows when overheated — this causes rounded edges, gloss variations, or bubbles.
- Different colors react differently: opaque white or colored sheets absorb faster than clear cast acrylic.
The whole point of good settings is to hit a sweet spot where the surface is vaporized, not just softened and melted.
The 4 Variables That Matter for Acrylic Engraving
Every engraving recipe in this article is built around four variables:
- Engraving power (%): how much of the laser’s rated power you use.
- Speed (mm/s): we provide both a “high speed” (800 mm/s) and a “best quality” (400 mm/s) option.
- Air pressure (bar): mild air assist (1–2 bar) is enough to clear fumes without over-cooling.
- Engraving depth (mm): from surface frosted effects (0.1 mm) up to deep 3 mm pockets.
The chart below assumes a standard focus lens (≈50–63.5 mm) and well-aligned optics on a clean machine.
Beginner Presets (Pick a Goal, Then Adjust)
If you’re new, don’t overthink “depth” first. Choose a goal, start with these presets, then fine-tune power ±2–3%.
Preset A — Clean frosted logo/text
Target depth: 0.1–0.2 mm
Speed: Best quality (400 mm/s = 24,000 mm/min)
Line interval: 0.10 mm
Air: 1–2 bar (low)
If too light: +2% power. If melting: -2% power or 2 passes.
Preset B — Backlit LED sign (back engraving)
Target depth: 0.2–0.5 mm
Speed: Best quality
Line interval: 0.08–0.10 mm
Tip: Keep film on the front side to reduce smoke marks; clean after engraving.
If glossy: reduce power slightly or increase speed.
Preset C — Paint fill / inlay pocket
Target depth: 0.5–1.0 mm
Speed: High speed for throughput, or Best quality for sharp edges
Passes: 2 passes preferred
Between passes: brush/vacuum chips to avoid re-melting.
Preset D — Deep pocket (2–3 mm)
Target depth: 2.0–3.0 mm
Method: 2–3 shallow passes
Air: low, steady (1–2 bar)
If bottom is rough: add one finishing pass with slightly lower power.
Acrylic Engraving Settings Chart (0.1–3 mm)
These settings are based on real engraving tests with 80 W and 130 W CO₂ lasers. Use the “Best quality” column when you care about maximum detail, and the “High speed” column when you need faster throughput.
| Depth (mm) |
80 W CO₂ laser | 130 W CO₂ laser | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Power (%) | High speed (mm/s) |
Best quality (mm/s) |
Power (%) | High speed (mm/s) |
Best quality (mm/s) |
|
| 0.1 mm | 12–14% | 800 | 400 | 10–12% | 800 | 400 |
| 0.2 mm | 14–16% | 800 | 400 | 12–14% | 800 | 400 |
| 0.5 mm | 22–24% | 800 | 400 | 18–20% | 800 | 400 |
| 1.0 mm | 24–26% | 800 | 400 | 20–22% | 800 | 400 |
| 2.0 mm | 30–35% | 800 | 400 | 25–30% | 800 | 400 |
| 3.0 mm | 35–40% | 800 | 400 | 30–35% | 800 | 400 |
Tip: On mobile, the table becomes a card list so you can read all columns without swiping.
• 800 mm/s = 48,000 mm/min
• 400 mm/s = 24,000 mm/min
If your machine’s max speed is lower, keep speed as high as your system allows and tune power ±2–3%.
Air pressure for all rows: 1–2 bar light air assist, just enough to clear fumes and dust.
What Each Depth Range Is Good For
Once you have the numbers, it’s easier to decide how deep you really need to engrave:
0.1–0.2 mm – Frosted surface marking
Ideal for:
- Fine text and logos on acrylic plaques
- Back-engraved LED signs
- Photo engraving (with dithering)
Use the low-end of the power range above; you want a clean, frosted surface without visible grooves.
0.5–1.0 mm – Standard logo & text depth
This is the “everyday” engraving depth for:
- Gift items, keychains, awards
- Back-filled paint inlays
- Acrylic front panels with labeled buttons
Most GWEIKE Cloud users will live in this 0.5–1.0 mm band. If you see melting or edge rounding, lower power 2–3% and run a second pass.
2.0–3.0 mm – Deep engraving and pockets
Use these settings when you need:
- Deep pockets for resin inlays
- 3D relief style engraving
- Mechanical features (e.g. shallow recesses)
For 3 mm depth, we recommend:
- Start around the lower end of the power range
- Engrave with 2–3 passes instead of one extremely hot pass
- Brush and clean between passes to remove melted chips
Practical Tips to Avoid Melting and Yellowing
Even with a perfect chart, acrylic can be unforgiving. These tips make your life easier:
Tip 1 – Use multiple shallow passes
Instead of jumping straight to the highest power for 3 mm, start with 2–3 lighter passes. The surface stays cooler, and edges remain sharp instead of rounded.
Tip 2 – Keep air assist low
1–2 bar is enough. Too much air can cool the surface unevenly and blow melted acrylic around, creating rough textures or streaks.
Tip 3 – Focus and bed leveling
Acrylic depth is sensitive to focus. Check that your bed is level and re-focus whenever you switch thickness or change lenses.
Tip 4 – Cast vs extruded acrylic
Cast acrylic engraves with a whiter, frosted look; extruded often appears more transparent. For extruded sheets you may need +2–3% extra power.
How to Run a Quick Test Grid (Recommended)
If you’re unsure which row to trust for your sheet, run a small test grid once and you’ll save hours later:
- Pick one target (e.g. 0.2 mm frosted logo) and keep speed fixed.
- Make 5–7 squares and step power in 2% increments (e.g. 12/14/16/18/20%).
- Choose the square that looks white/clean with the sharpest edges, then save it as a LightBurn material preset.
FAQ (Beginner Questions)
Why does acrylic engraving look yellow or smoky?
Usually smoke is re-depositing on the surface. Keep air assist low-but-steady, leave protective film on the top side when possible, and clean the sheet after engraving. Also check lens cleanliness and ventilation.
My engraving looks glossy and not “frosted”. What should I change?
Glossy usually means you are melting more than vaporizing. Reduce power 2–3% or increase speed slightly. A tighter line interval (e.g. 0.08–0.10 mm) also helps create a more uniform frosted look.
Clear acrylic doesn’t look white. Is that normal?
Yes. Clear acrylic can look less “white” than opaque/cast sheets. Cast acrylic typically engraves with a whiter frost. For extruded/clear sheets, try +2–3% power or slightly tighter interval.
Should I use one deep pass or multiple passes for 2–3 mm pockets?
Multiple shallow passes are safer and cleaner. One hot pass tends to re-melt chips, round edges, and leave a rough pocket bottom.
What line interval should I use in LightBurn for acrylic?
A good beginner starting point is 0.10 mm. For sharper detail, try 0.08 mm. For faster jobs with less detail, 0.12 mm can work. Then adjust power ±2–3% to match your sheet.
My results changed after switching acrylic brands. Why?
Different brands and cast vs extruded react differently. Treat the chart as a safe window, then run a quick power test grid and save presets for each sheet type.
Do I need strong air assist for acrylic engraving?
No. Strong air can cause uneven cooling and blow melted acrylic around. Low air (around 1–2 bar) is usually enough to clear fumes.
Why is my engraving shallow or dusty?
Common causes are under-power, too fast speed, out-of-focus, dirty lens/mirrors, or poor ventilation pulling smoke back onto the surface. Increase power 2–3% or reduce speed slightly, and re-check focus and optics.
Conclusion
Acrylic is beginner-friendly but sensitive to heat. With the right combination of power, speed, and air assist, you can get crisp, frosted engravings from 0.1 mm surface marks up to 3 mm deep pockets.
Start from the chart above, run a small test grid on your actual acrylic, then save your own presets inside the GWEIKE control software.