MDF is everywhere in laser projects – signs, décor panels, craft blanks, furniture parts and more. It engraves well, but it also loves to burn, turn dark and collect dust in every little groove if the settings are wrong.
In this guide we share real test data for engraving high-density MDF from 0.1–3 mm deep with 80 W and 130 W CO₂ lasers. The goal is simple: clean edges, less burn marks, and repeatable results on machines like the GWEIKE Cloud and M-Series.
Why MDF Is Tricky to Engrave Cleanly
MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is made of wood fibers, resin and glue. This mix is great for cutting and engraving, but it comes with a few problems:
- It burns easily: the resin and fibers darken fast if power is too high or speed is too slow.
- It holds heat: the dense structure keeps heat in, so hot spots appear quickly.
- It makes a lot of dust: without enough air, the smoke and dust sit in the groove and make everything look dirty.
The good news: with stable settings, MDF can engrave with crisp lines and soft brown shading instead of black, burnt edges.
The Four Settings That Matter Most
Every MDF engraving job is a balance of four basic settings:
- Power (%): how hard the laser hits the surface.
- Speed (mm/s): how fast the head moves. We use 800 mm/s and 400 mm/s as two standard modes.
- Air pressure (bar): air assist to push away smoke and dust. For engraving, 1–2 bar is enough.
- Depth (mm): how deep you want to go – from light surface marks to 3 mm pockets.
The charts below assume a normal engraving lens (around 50–63.5 mm), good focus and a flat bed.
MDF Engraving Settings (0.1–3 mm) – 80 W vs 130 W
These settings come from real tests on high-density MDF. For each depth we give you:
- Power (%) for an 80 W CO₂ laser
- Power (%) for a 130 W CO₂ laser
- High speed: 800 mm/s (faster jobs, lighter shading)
- Best quality: 400 mm/s (stronger engraving, more detail)
| Depth (mm) |
80 W CO₂ laser (MDF) | 130 W CO₂ laser (MDF) | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Power (%) | High speed (mm/s) |
Best quality (mm/s) |
Power (%) | High speed (mm/s) |
Best quality (mm/s) |
|
| 0.1 mm | 12–14% | 800 | 400 | 10–12% | 800 | 400 |
| 0.2 mm | 14–16% | 800 | 400 | 12–14% | 800 | 400 |
| 0.5 mm | 22–24% | 800 | 400 | 18–20% | 800 | 400 |
| 1.0 mm | 24–26% | 800 | 400 | 20–22% | 800 | 400 |
| 2.0 mm | 30–35% | 800 | 400 | 25–30% | 800 | 400 |
| 3.0 mm | 35–40% | 800 | 400 | 30–35% | 800 | 400 |
Air pressure: for all rows, use about 1–2 bar of air assist to blow out dust without blowing MDF fibers everywhere.
What Each Engraving Depth Is Good For
You don’t need deep engraving for every job. Here’s how we usually match depth to real projects in the shop.
0.1–0.2 mm – Light marking and fine detail
Best for:
- Small text and icons
- Light shading on décor panels
- Logos that should sit on the surface, not in a deep groove
At this depth you want a clean color change, not a deep cut. Use the lower end of the power range and the 800 mm/s speed to keep the surface from burning.
0.5–1.0 mm – “Everyday” engraving depth
This range is where most MDF engraving work happens:
- Signs and wall décor
- Lettering on furniture parts
- Logos and graphic elements for small business products
0.5 mm gives a clear groove and nice shadow. 1.0 mm is better when you plan to paint-fill or sand slightly.
If the engrave looks too dark or burnt, drop power by 2–3% and try again. It’s easier to add a second pass than to fix deep burn marks.
2.0–3.0 mm – Deep pockets and inlay work
Use this depth when you need:
- Deep pockets for resin or epoxy inlays
- Recessed areas for other parts to sit in
- Heavy 3D-style engraving on thick MDF boards
For 3 mm engraving, we recommend:
- Start at the low end of the power range (for example 35% on 80 W).
- Engrave in 2–3 passes instead of one very hot pass.
- Vacuum or brush the groove between passes to remove loose dust.
How to Avoid Burn Marks and Dark Edges on MDF
Almost everyone who engraves MDF sees dark edges at first. Here are simple fixes that usually solve the problem.
Tip 1 – Use more passes, not just more power
If you want a 3 mm pocket, don’t jump straight to 40% power. Run 2–3 passes at 30–35%. The wood stays cooler and the edges look cleaner.
Tip 2 – Keep the head moving fast
For light and medium engraving, try 800 mm/s first. Only drop to 400 mm/s when you really need more depth or stronger contrast.
Tip 3 – Maintain steady air assist
Use about 1–2 bar. This is enough to push out smoke and dust. Without air, soot will hang in the groove and make the whole area look dirty.
Tip 4 – Try masking tape for cleaner surfaces
For visible front surfaces, many makers put low-tack masking tape on top of the MDF. After engraving, peel it off to remove a lot of the loose burn marks and dust.
Conclusion
MDF can look messy if the settings are wrong, but it can also look very clean and professional with the right mix of power, speed, depth and air.
Use the table above as your starting point, run a small test grid on your own MDF brand, and then save your favorite presets in your laser software. After a few jobs, you will know exactly how your machine likes to engrave MDF.